A Transcendental Visit to an Ottoman Graveyard

What a Stone Hat Can Tell You About a Life Once Lived

You might walk past them without a second glance—tall, timeworn stones tucked beside mosques, in quiet courtyards, or hidden behind iron gates. But look closer, and you’ll see turbans, fezzes, flowers, books, swords... carved into the very top of the stones.

These aren’t just tombstones. They’re coded messages from the Ottoman world—telling you who someone was, what they believed in, and how they wished to be remembered.

The Concept of Death in Ottomans and Islam

In Islam—and by extension, the Ottoman worldview—death is not the end, but a passage. It’s seen as a return to the Creator, not something to fear but to prepare for. The Ottomans embraced this idea not only spiritually, but also architecturally and artistically.

That’s why cemeteries in Istanbul aren’t hidden away—they're part of daily life. You’ll find gravestones beside mosques, along busy streets, even overlooking the Bosphorus. Death, in this culture, isn’t taboo—it’s a gentle reminder of life’s impermanence, and an invitation to live with meaning.

The gravestones themselves reflect this worldview: poetic inscriptions, symbols of identity, and elegant design—not as a display of grief, but as a final expression of faith, status, and individuality.

🎩 First, Look at the Headwear

In Ottoman graveyards, the headstone often literally shows a headpiece.

• A turban? Likely a religious scholar or someone pious.

• A fez? A civil servant, possibly from the 19th century.

• A dervish cap? Maybe a follower of a Sufi order.

• Military helmet or plumed turban? Someone of high rank or martial honor.

Men's gravestones almost always bear headgear—because what you wore spoke volumes in Ottoman society.

Women at the cemetery

🌸 Women’s Stones: Subtle but Symbolic

Women’s gravestones usually don’t have headwear but are no less expressive.Look for floral carvings—often tulips or roses. The tulip, in particular, was a symbol of divine beauty and spiritual elegance.

Occasionally, children's graves have tiny shoes, birds, or flowers—heartbreaking in their tenderness.

Women's Gravestones with Floral design

📜 The Script Says More (If You Can Read It)

Most stones include Arabic-script Ottoman Turkish, often poetic or Qur’anic.Common phrases include:

• “Ruhuna Fatiha” – "A Fatiha for their soul"

• “Hüvel Baki” – “Only He (God) remains”

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You’ll also find the death date in both Hijri (Islamic) and Gregorian calendars, often with ornate phrasing like “He migrated to the eternal realm…”

Leaning Gravestones

People Used Graveyards as Parks

In the past—and even today—Turkish people have not viewed cemeteries as distant, solemn places visited only on special occasions. Instead, they’ve seen them as part of everyday life. That’s why cemeteries were often located on the outskirts of the city, yet always within reach. As the city expanded, many of these cemeteries became enveloped by urban life. Some were repurposed as building grounds for new neighborhoods, while others still remain preserved within the modern cityscape.

Across nearly every city in Türkiye, you’ll find the tombs of saints and revered figures. Locals have long visited these sites, not just to pay respects, but to seek spiritual help in dealing with life’s everyday struggles.

Let’s see what Edmondo De Amicis—a keen-eyed Italian writer and poet—had to say about Istanbul’s cemeteries in the 19th century.

🕋 Notable Cemeteries & Burial Sites in Istanbul

1. Eyüp Cemetery (Eyüp Sultan Mezarlığı) 

Located at the holy area of Eyüp, this is cemetery offers a beautiful view of Golden Horn.

2. Karacaahmet Cemetery (Karacaahmet Mezarlığı) 

Located in the Asian side of İstanbul, this is one of the largest cemeteries in İstanbul.

3. Süleymaniye Mosque Courtyard & Surroundings

Visit here to visit the tombs of Süleyman the Magnificent and his beloved wife Hürrem.

4. Courtyards of Mosques

Almost all mosques built before the 19th century, have their own burial grounds called 'Hazire'.

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