Byzantine to Ottoman: 7 Places Where Istanbul’s Layers Collide
- My Istanbul Guide
- May 24
- 2 min read
Istanbul doesn’t just have history—it is history, stacked like a slightly unstable baklava. Walk five minutes in any direction, and you’ll trip over a 1,500-year-old column, a sultan’s lost slipper, or a cat napping on a Byzantine sarcophagus (they’ve always had premium taste in real estate).
Here’s where the city’s Byzantine ghosts and Ottoman overlords bicker like upstairs neighbors—with you as the lucky spectator.
1. Hagia Sophia: The Ultimate Makeover
Byzantine: Built in 537 AD as the world’s fanciest church (Justinian allegedly bragged, “Solomon, I have outdone thee!”).
Ottoman: Converted to a mosque in 1453—minarets added, mosaics plastered over, and a mihrab awkwardly shoehorned in.
Today: A museum-mosque-muddle where angels and calligraphy share wall space. Pro tip: The “Weeping Column” has a hole worn smooth by 1,500 years of people jamming their thumbs in for good luck. Desperation transcends empires.

2. The Basilica Cistern: Where Medusa Got a Day Job
Byzantine: A 6th-century underground water tank with 336 columns looted from pagan temples.
Ottoman: Forgotten for centuries, then rediscovered when locals kept catching fish through their basement floors.
Today: A moody subterranean pool where Medusa’s head was dumped upside down (possibly to neutralize her stone-turning glare—ancient OSHA compliance).

3. Topkapı Palace’s Tiles vs. Theodosian Walls
Byzantine: The massive land walls that held off armies for 1,000 years… until 1453, when the Ottomans finally crashed the party.
Ottoman: Topkapı Palace built nearby as a flex—“Look at our delicate Iznik tiles and jeweled daggers, losers.”
Today: The walls still stand, slightly crumbled, while tourists at Topkapı queue to see a spoon. (Sultan’s relic or very old cafeteria utensil? The world may never know.)

4. Chora Church/Kariye Mosque: The Art Heist
Byzantine: Covered in breathtaking gold mosaics of biblical dramas.
Ottoman: Whitewashed and repurposed, because “No faces in our mosques, thanks.”
Today: A restored museum (for now) where Jesus gazes serenely at Ottoman calligraphy like they’re awkward roommates.

5. The Grand Bazaar: Shopping Mall of Empires
Byzantine: A chaotic market district where traders haggled over silk and secrets.
Ottoman: Systematized into a covered maze with 4,000 shops and at least 10,000 “genuine fake” Rolexes.
Today: Still the world’s most stressful game of “Is this lamp actually antique or just antique-adjacent?”

6. Süleymaniye Mosque’s Roman Recyclables
Ottoman: Sinan’s masterpiece, built with columns pillaged from Byzantine ruins.
Byzantine revenge: The marble still whispers “I was here first” under your feet.
Today: Best place to sip tea while pretending you’re a time-traveling architect.

7. The Hippodrome: Where Obelisks Have Commitment Issues
Byzantine: A racetrack for chariots, riots, and general drama.
Ottoman: Turned into a plaza because “Horse races are haram, but moving Egyptian obelisks is fine.”
Today: Home to:
A 3,500-year-old Egyptian obelisk (stolen)
A 2,000-year-old Greek serpent column (beheaded)
A German fountain (gifted, slightly off-brand)

Want to see these layers peel apart in real time? Let’s explore—I promise not to make you test your thumb in the Weeping Column. (Okay, maybe a little.)
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